National Occupational Competency Testing Institute (NOCTI) Cosmetology Practice Exam

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What key ingredient is found in the solution used to process a chemical permanent wave?

  1. Ammonium thioglycolate

  2. Keratin

  3. Hydrogen peroxide

  4. Silicone

The correct answer is: Ammonium thioglycolate

The key ingredient found in the solution used to process a chemical permanent wave is ammonium thioglycolate. This compound acts as a reducing agent, which breaks down the disulfide bonds in the hair's cortex. By doing so, it allows the hair to be reshaped and set into a new form with the use of curling rods. When applied during the perm process, ammonium thioglycolate creates a chemical reaction that softens the hair structure, making it malleable for styling. After the desired curl is achieved, a neutralizer is used to reform the disulfide bonds, which locks the hair into its new shape. Other substances mentioned, such as keratin, hydrogen peroxide, and silicone, have different roles in hair care and treatments. Keratin is a structural protein that helps strengthen hair but is not involved in the perming process itself. Hydrogen peroxide is often used as a developer in hair coloring rather than in perming. Silicone serves as a conditioning agent that provides shine and smoothness, but it does not play a role in the perming chemistry. Thus, the primary agent responsible for processing a chemical permanent wave is indeed ammonium thioglycolate.